Understanding Melanin-Rich Skin Before we dive into the importance of choosing skincare products for melanated-skin, it’s crucial that we first understand how a deeper complexion is different from other skin tones. The skin’s surface contains pigment-producing cells called melanocytes, which produce melanin that gives the skin its color. The more melanin is produced, the deeper the complexion becomes—as is the case with melanated-skin, or those that fall under Types IV–VI of the Fitzpatrick Scale.

Aside from giving the skin its unique tone, melanin also acts as a protective buffer against the sun’s harmful rays. In one study, researchers found that melanated-skin sustains lesser UV-induced DNA damage than lighter skin tones and is also more efficient at ridding the skin of damaged cells, lowering the risk of skin cancer. This is one reason melanin-rich skin doesn’t display signs of aging at the same rate as lighter skin tones, with some studies showing that deeper complexions appear smoother and firmer.

But just as melanin-rich skin has its own unique benefits, it also comes with a few skin-tone-specific concerns, particularly hyperpigmentation and discoloration. “Skin that is melanated has a lower incidence of skin cancers because the increased levels of melanin and larger melanosomes lead to better photoprotection. However, with more melanin, people of color have more post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after trauma and inflammatory conditions like eczema, acne, and other rashes,” explains Kemunto Mokaya, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in Houston, TX.

Redness from sensitivity and inflammatory skin conditions is also trickier to spot in melanated-skin, says Dr. Mokaya, and is often misdiagnosed as it can present as brown, purple, or gray patches. Without proper diagnosis and treatment, this can cause more pigmentation and discoloration issues for the skin, causing uneven skin tone.

Additionally, melanated-skin tends to be on the oilier side due to having a larger pore size compared to lighter skin tones. Overactive oil glands make the skin more likely to experience breakouts, which, in turn, leave marks and blemishes that can appear darker and last longer in deeper skin tones.

Key Considerations for Melanin-Rich Skin While melanated-skin offers some form of built-in protection against UV rays, this doesn’t make skin of color immune to photodamage. These include signs of aging, such as sun spots or lentigines, loss of firmness, redness, and uneven texture.

In the case of melanin-rich skin, Dr. Mokaya says, “Sun protection is vital in preventing premature aging, and despite melanin, people with skin of color should still use sunscreen and practice other sun protective measures.” This means applying (and reapplying) a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher that can shield the skin from both UVA and UVB rays.

Another way to prevent and treat hyperpigmentation in melanated-skin is by paying closer attention to the skin’s natural barrier. “We know that in the case of melanated-skin, a strong skin barrier will not only protect the skin from wrinkles as it does in all skin types, but also from post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation,” explains San Francisco-based doctor of internal medicine Simran Sethi, MD, founder and medical director of RenewMD Beauty & Wellness.